Naval Service Uniform - Development
In 1939, Colonel AT Lawlor, the Service’s first director, devised the Irish Naval Service uniform. Colonel Lawlor used what was by then the almost standard, ‘square rig’ uniform worn by navies around the world, though with some modifications. The sailor’s cap was given a blue woolen bobbin, similar to the bobbin on the “Báinín” cap worn by fishermen in the West of Ireland. The white front was embroidered with a harp and the Defence forces badge was fitted to the cap.
The crews of the Motor Torpedo Boat flotilla (previous to 1946), wore a cap ribbons with the ships name, and tied in a bow at the side, similar to The Royal Navy. The British manufacturer, not realising that the ribbons were to hang in a three-inch tail from the back of the Irish cap, embroidered the ribbons in the British fashion.
It also was decided to dispense with ship names on the ribbons and future ribbons were made in Ireland with the title “Éire”. Initially these were one and a quarter inches wide with heavy thread embroidery. There were several minor variations, but by 1945 the design was chosen and remained in use until the mid-1970s.
The ‘blue jean collar’ had two stripes around its edge, an outer broad stripe and an inner narrow stripe. The collar also had an anchor embroidered in each corner. The ‘silk’ was mid-blue and the lanyard was dark-blue in colour, though this was later changed to white. The reasoning behind these details was mainly to make the uniform distinctive and different to that that of other world navies. The blue of the silk was chosen since blue is the colour of Government of Ireland and has been so since the middle ages. This is also the reason why Irish Naval Ship’s Commissioning Pennant, have a harp on a blue background declaring it a state ship.
Since those early days, the uniform, while looking superficially the same, has changed in almost every detail. The material is now synthetic rather than the old blue serge. The uniform jacket is now zip fronted where it once had no front opening and was pulled on over the head. This was more properly called a ‘jumper’, while the blue polo neck pullover worn underneath in winter was referred to as a “jersey”. This has now been withdrawn with the white front worn all year round.
Bell bottomed slacks were another well-known item of the square rig uniform. These were practical garments for men who worked sailing ships since they could be rolled up securely to clear the feet and ankles when working the rigging. The bell bottomed slacks have become narrower and closer fitting and fitted with a normal front fly.
The Naval Uniform Origins
Up to the middle of the 19th century it was not the custom for sailors to wear any sort of uniform at all. Since ships crews were enlisted for short periods only, there was not the requirement for uniformity of dress. Nevertheless, in the late 18th century, sailors commonly wore certain styles of dress, and these gradually evolved into a uniform.
The British Royal Navy has been the basis of most of the world’s naval uniforms from the time they adopted their dark blue officers’ uniforms in 1748. However, the British Admiralty first set down an official uniform rig for ratings in 1857. Up to then it had been the practice to sell 'slop' or ready made clothing to seamen on board Royal Navy Ships.
The Royal Navy still refers to its clothing stores as ‘slop stores or slops’. This clothing lacked uniformity and its fashion and colour varied with the period and whim of the contractor. For instance, during Queen Anne’s reign, Royal Navy sailors tended to be dressed in red and grey, but by the middle of the eighteenth century blue had become the commonest colour.
The uniform did not differentiate between senior and junior ratings except in the badges worn on the left sleeve, since all those dressed as seamen wore a square rig. The most distinctive article of naval dress was, and still is, the square collar. This arose from the fact that 18th century sailors did not cut their hair short, but held it in a tarred pigtail (this is why sailors were often referred to as “Tars” or “Jack Tars”).
This pigtail would stain the back and collar of the sailors good ‘going ashore’ jacket, so the practice was to tie a piece of blue denim over the collar of the jacket to protect it from the tar. (The official name of the collar is a ‘blue jean’ collar). It was also the custom to decorate shore-going rig with strips of white tape, which led to stripes worn on the collar and these remain to this day.
Under his jacket the sailor wore a loose shirt with a collar, around which he wore a silk cravat, loosely tied, and this is still in use as the “silk”. This cravat was also used as a type of sweatband in action. Gunners carried a lanyard, as it was used to operate the firing mechanism of a ship’s cannon. For general work, white canvas trousers were worn.
These were a loose fit because when they became wet they would dry without being removed and without sticking to the sailor’s legs. They were also worn as shore-going rig. Worn above the trousers was a white canvas vest, cut from a square of cloth with a square neck. This item is still in use is known as a ‘white front’.
In earlier times, the “white front” was used as work-wear only, but it later evolved into a formal item of dress. The basis of this garment was the fact that it was a home made item and so very simply tailored. It was cut from a light cotton duck canvas into a rectangle shape, which was folded in two and stitched along the edges with a square opening cut for the neck, similar to a poncho.
Sailors actually made and mended quite a few items of their kit and time on ship was set-aside for this purpose. The term “make and mend” still survives and now means time off work on board ship.